Attraction/aversion

On a recent trip to Melbourne I got to catch up with all my favourite jewellery galleries/shops - Studio Ingot, eg etal, Gallery Funaki (a whole damn tray of Karl Fritsch rings) and the wonderful new Pieces of Eight gallery.

I saw some great work, but nothing that hit me as viscerally as these hair necklaces by Kerry Howley that a friend tipped me off to this week



I'm intrigued by what wearing these pieces would feel like. Howley calls the series attraction/aversion, and my first reaction on that basis was not about the taboo nature of hair, a la Vivian Lynn, but the physical sensation. To look at, you'd think they'd feel itchy and scratchy - there's something about those curves that suggests tickly ickiness. But then I recalled that I have long hair, and when it hits my throat and shoulders its almost imperceptible, and any tickle is quite pleasant. So my curiosity moved on to pondering how people would react if you were wearing a work like this - how outspoken they might be in their own attraction or aversion.

Oooh, aaaah

There's nothing better for a punishing headcold than a poke around Melbourne's contemporary jewellery galleries (online, that is - that way you don't have to worry about your nose leaking on a display cabinet).

I've been a fan of the Pieces of Eight gallery for years now - my Craig Spark necklace I bought there in 2006 remains one of my most favourite things. I didn't realise that the gallery had moved into town; I can't wait to see their new place in June. Pieces of Eight also has a very active and picture-packed blog, featuring piece of the day and workbench of the week posts: an immediate add to Google Reader.

Djurdijca Kesic 'Transformation' rings

Djurdijca Kesic 'Malmsbury' necklace and detail

It's clearly been a while since I perused the Melbourne jewellery scene, as Djurdjica Kesic's work has snuck up on me unseen. It's always hard to tell online, of course, but her work looks exactly like what appeals to me - non-traditional materials mixed in with traditional, 'precious' materials, a slightly industrial or rough-edged tone, a formal approach to materials, and a sense of adventure and surprise. Kesic has had three shows at Pieces of Eight: Nomad, Transitions and work in the group show My Pet Rock. Fingers crossed I can get to the real thing in June.

I've also started following Karen Thompson's Melbourne Jeweller blog in preparation for my trip (you can't say I don't take these things seriously) - as well as the coverage of local jewellery happenings I particularly appreciate that she uses a Creative Commons license on her blog's content. Also, she out her links page for a long listing of Australian jeweller blogs and hours of online exploration.

The best things about Melbourne

1. My friends who live there

2. Trams

3. The collection galleries at the NGV International

4. Two great contemporary jewellery galleries: Gallery Funaki (on Crossley Street, just by Pellegrinis) and Pieces of Eight, a relatively new space on Brunswick Street in North Fitzroy.

In a sweeping generalisation: New Zealand jewellery tends to be focused on narrative: it has to be about something (witness Jason Hall's current show at Craft Victoria). In comparison, Australian contemporary jewellers seem to be more interested in materials, and to be more playful. In Melbourne RMIT seems to have fostered a strong and productive community, as well as a number of spaces for work to be seen and sold.

Some of my favourites:

Blanche Tilden's industro-chic glass and silver bike chains:



Mari Funaki's work in mild steel (Funaki is the founder of Gallery Funaki, which shows local and international jewellers, including New Zealanders Kirsten Haydon and Warwick Freeman) :


Craig Spark's delicate, intricate but unfussy gold and silver necklaces:


Kiko Gionocca's long articulated porcelain chains, which you'll have to go to Gallery Funaki to see, as I can't find an image anywhere, but here's some pins by him to make do:



Manon van Kouswijk's porcelain necklaces, like this one, which look perilous to wear, and her paper sequin necklaces, which are funny and light:


Images:

Blanche Tilden, 'Everywhere', glass and silver, image from the Vetriglass website

Mari Funaki, 'Space between', mild steel, image from the NGV website

Craig Spark, neckpiece, image from the Pieces of Eight website

Kiko Gianocca, 'I’ve got butterflies' , oxidized silver, steel, epoxy, image from the NGV website

Manon van Kouswijk, necklace, image from the Klimt02 website